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Business & Tech

Crossroads Coffee House: Take a Second Look

This week food writer Clara Park reviews Crossroads Coffee House in Roxborough.

I remember a time talking with famed food writer/culinary authority David Rosengarten about the good ol' days of fat expense accounts, plump food magazines with pages and pages of gorgeous food photography and only a few voices in the culinary landscape.

My jaw dropped when he told me how one of his publishers wrote a six-figure check for meal reimbursement when he was reviewing for a prominent magazine. Back then, there was no limit on spending and he could take as many people as he wanted out for a meal--numerous times. I couldn't begin to imagine what it would be like to take four to seven of your nearest and dearest out to the best restaurants in NYC whenever you wanted and have the restaurant cater to your every whim. Craziness. 

While not nearly as luxurious or glamorous as Rosengarten's job, I too have a wonderful job and get paid to eat out and write about it. Obviously it's not remotely on the same scale but when a restaurant is on the inexpensive side, I too can conduct a second visit. This proved more than beneficial for

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The first time I went I was less than impressed. They had just mopped using dirty bleach water which resulted in an off-putting odor. I ordered a waldorf chicken salad sandwich and iced coffee to go. I prefer my chicken salad on plain bread but they had toasted it. The multi-grain bread was hearty and wonderful and didn't need to be toasted. I also don't like warm chicken salad, even when it's delicious. The chicken salad was moist with bursts of interesting textural notes coming from the tender walnuts, succulent morsels of chicken and sweet and chewy raisins. The crunchy bits of celery were also pleasing and provided a nice contrast. The iced coffee was fair but much improved with tons of milk and sugar.

The second time I went in it was a completely different experience. There was no funky bleachy odor. I came in for breakfast and ordered a latte and a bacon, egg and cheese breakfast sandwich on the homemade brioche. The latte (made with whole milk) was excellent. There was no bitterness to the coffee and plenty of frothy milk. A packet or two of sugar in the raw and it was caffeinated bliss.

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The breakfast sandwich was awesome. The scrambled eggs were soft and not overcooked and rubbery. The cheese was melted nicely and the bacon crisp. Brioche may not look all that rich but it is made with so much butter you would have to see the process to believe it. The toasty brioche provided a fantastic casing to the protein feast inside. With a few drops of Tabasco, this could be the perfect way to start your day.

The service is outstanding. You are greeted as soon as you set foot inside. The staff is patient and can answer all your questions. When I got up to bus my plate, someone ran over immediately and took the dirty dish away from me. The shop seems to cater to regulars as most people that come and go seem to know the staff and vice versa. I can see why this place attracts the same people over and over.

The decor is part library, part coffee house, part gallery. When you enter the shop you will notice the walls painted in bright orange and yellow hues which lend a welcoming vibe. The wooden floors have been worn out over time but still retain a ruddy appearance. The tables have a faux marble finish and there are numerous high backed black chairs. Every so often there is a cozy looking arm chair begging for a warm body and good book. The walls are adorned with photographs, paintings and European prints. Upstairs there are walls of bookshelves filled with guidebooks, paper backs and hard cover classics. Be sure to look straight up at the gorgeous stained glass and artworks masquerading as light fixtures. 

I will definitely be back again for that breakfast sandwich or a quiet place to work (or both). We might be living in a time of belt-tightening and record high unemployment but I was glad that the modest pricing here allowed me to come back for a second visit (and still remain under budget). You should always give someone/something a second chance, we'd be better off if we all did this.

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