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Business & Tech

Restaurant Review: The Ugly Moose

This week food writer Clara Park reviews The Ugly Moose in Manayunk.

Restaurant:

Address: 443 Shurs Ln., Philadelphia (Manayunk), PA
Rating: (out of 5 stars): ★★★ 1/2
Style: Rustic American
Food: Tasty staples including burgers, sandwiches, fish and pasta dishes
Atmosphere: More refined mountain lodge and bar
Parking: Valet
Service: Friendly and casual
Price Range: Moderate
Unique Features: Rotating draft beer list including local brews and microbrews as well as homemade desserts

We drove by twice before finding the driveway that leads into the valet parking lot for the restaurant. This neighborhood gem tucked away on Shurs Lane offers delicious, unpretentious food and a fantastic beer selection. The valet parking is the cherry on top given the nearly impossible parking situation in the area. After a particularly grueling week, a big unapologetic dinner with cold beer was just what the doctor ordered.

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We began with Dogfish 60 minute IPA, a dirty ho (hoegaarden and framboise lambic ale) and another craft beer. The draft beer list changes regularly and often features unique selections that are difficult to find. My friend, a hard core beer aficionado, continually oohed and ahhed over the list all night. Also noteworthy are the wallet-friendly beer and drink specials.

For appetizers we had the pierogies (one of the daily specials) and the crab dip. The pierogies were warm, brimming with potato filling and not too doughy. A little smear of sour cream added the right amount of fatty richness and a tart note. The crab dip, though tasty, was dominated by cream cheese.  We didn’t particularly enjoy the tortilla chips with the dip but the warm bread was a wonderful accompaniment. Both choices were ideal for the somewhat brisk weather we experienced sitting outside (there was an hour long wait to dine indoors…).

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Each one of us chose an entrée from a different part of the menu which allowed us to enjoy a nice cross section of the menu. The salmon North by Northwest was fantastic. The large grilled salmon filet with caper lemon butter on top of a mountain of creamy mashed potatoes was nicely cooked and not dried out. The roasted red peppers and red onions added some sweet flavors as well as textural contrast.

The pasta with cream sauce, bacon, peas and chicken was surprisingly good. I was not expecting much but this dish was seasoned well and deeply satisfying. Each bite was better than the last and I’m sure it would taste even better the next day. The garlic bread was a bit lackluster but it didn’t matter because the pasta was clearly the star.

The Adirondack sandwich with slices of filet mignon and onion rings was another crowd pleaser. A fancier version of a typical sandwich, the higher quality ingredients made all the difference. The meat was tender and flavorful, the bread crusty on the outside and light and airy on the inside. The onion rings were tasty and not overly greasy.

We were beyond stuffed and enjoying full bellies and beer buzzes but had to try the carrot cake. This homemade double layer cake with cream cheese frosting was spot on. As a die hard fan of carrot cake I have tried hundreds of versions and this is one of the best I’ve tried. Moist, not overly sweet with slightly savory cream cheese frosting, this cake was awesome.

Our server was extremely pleasant and knowledgeable. Throughout the night numerous people came to clear plates, refill glasses and drop off food which indicated a healthy team environment. The friendly service, delicious food and valet parking all make this place an ideal dining destination. I’m still thinking about that salmon and carrot cake…

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